Project [!iN]tegra: catch-up pt.1/tune up pt.2
So I’ve fallen behind again. In the weeks since I’ve posted last, there have been a few things finished on the car. The rust on the trunk has been sanded away, primed, and painted. After much fighting with the Fuel filter, it has been replaced and is saving my gas economy. And I had to get some work done by a pro. Tonights post will be about the Fuel Filter, and the shop work.
The Fuel Filter
I decided it would be a good idea to change the fuel filter as part of my tune up that i had started before. It was looking old and so I don’t imagine it is as efficient, and they are pretty cheap. Might as well spend the $30, look at a service book and do it myself and save the money in gas consumption by increasing the economy and efficiency of my fuel system. So far sounds good. Looks easy enough to do. But frustrated me madly.
Before I show the step by step of how I did it I will save some space. My initial attempt was a pure failure. I had completed all the necessary steps to removing the filter except the actual removing. The Filter was rusted onto the line so hard I could not under any amount of reasonable force get it off. I was pissed. So I bought some Liquid Wrench and soaked the joint.

Liquid Wrench: Biggest time and frustration saver!
So now that I can actually remove the filter, heres how I did it step by step.
The Removal Process…twice.

1. remove the fuel cap

2. Remove neg battery cable

3. Loosen the Service Bolt

4. Cover with a shop towel when loosening

5. Release the Banjo Bolt

6. Remove the clamp bracket

With the clamp Removed.

7. Remove the Fuel Filter
1. First remove your fuel cap. This helps release pressure in the system so you don’t get sprayed in the face with gasoline when you take the bolts off the filter.
2. Remove the negative battery cable.
3. The Service bolt sits on top of the rest of the structure and allows you to release pressure from the system before attempting to remove the filter.
4. When you go to release the service bolt make sure the area is covered with a shop towel as gasoline will leak. You don’t want it on your hands and you definitely don’t want it anywhere on the battery.
5. Once the service bolt is off and pressure is released the Banjo Bolt comes out. The Banjo bolt hods the gas out line to the filter and gas travels through the center of the bolt, again when removing the bolt see #4.
6. The filter is held in place by a bracket, remove the bracket… easier said then done as the bolt is at the back of the filter in a very tight space. Frustration ensues but will eventually come off.
7. This step the first time got me no where. After using trusty Liquid Wrench and allowing it to soak into the joint the job was much easier. Use a wrench to hold the fuel line in place and unscrew the filter from the line.
First Install

Old vs. New Part Source filter
So here we have the new filter I picked up from Part Source for $35. Not bad as it will save me some gas and help the car run better. Following the steps in the reverse order I re-installed the fuel filter. After much fighting to get it back into the bracket I put the new washers seemingly in place tightened everything up, replaced the battery cable and replaced the fuel cap. Pumped the gas line to avoid a haaaard start and at first nothing… Re-tighten the bolts and start. Success…almost.
There was lots and lots of gas leaking from the filter. at first from the bottom near the gas-line, re-tighten. Then I noticed leaking from the top near the banjo bolt.

Leaky P.O.S.
After fighting with it for 45 minutes I gave up defeated. I replaced the old filter and called Acura the next day.
Second Install
After a trip to the Acura dealership I had another new, cheaper, filter in a Honda OEM bag.

Acura Filter
So I took the filter out of the bag and had a look at it. Compared it with the filter from Part Source and noticed a difference. The Acura filter had a divot where the washers would sit, the part source filter had a ridge. Strange. So again I dismantle the old filter and have a look. Lo’ and behold the old filter has a divot. Now I understand why my Part Source filter was leaking. It was improperly made. The washers were unable to form a tight seal.

One of these things is not like the others...

Fuel Line waiting for a new filter

Acura filter on

New filter running with no leaks!
I put the second new filter on, tightened up only once, replaced all my caps and cables, primed the engine and turned it on. Voila no leaks!
The lesson learned here is dont “cheap out” if possible, go and buy OEM when possible for your tune ups.
well, lookie here… a blog post and with PICS! not just any kind… a step by step guide!
wow…
mr. posty posting it up with the blog posts.
Comment by gunz | June 16, 2009 |